The recent opening of Atypical Man BBQ in St. Matthews (119 Saint Matthews Ave.) makes a third solid barbecue joint in an area better known for boutique shops and Bluegrass Brewing Co. beers.

Given that there are only a handful of really good barbecue places for miles around, the notion that three of the better one — including Frankfort Avenue Beer Depot (a.k.a. F.A.B.D) and Momma’s Mustard, Pickle & BBQ — is great news for lovers of smoky-saucy meats.

As Insider Louisville writer Kevin Gibson relates in a recent blog, Atypical Man BBQ owner Chris Banaszynski says good ‘cue requires a lot of time spent preparing it and presenting it, i.e. a commitment to quality. In a town with too many smoke-free, sauce-only barbecue options, this is great news.

As the restaurant’s name implies, there’s little typical about the food served here, and that sentiment reflects the rule-breaking mindset of many of Louisville’s best restaurants. In a market this size and, arguably, this young, you don’t always have to follow every rule to the letter as long as your food is connected to real tradition and still really good. Variations on respected themes are indeed worth eating, and it appears this one is, too.

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