I’ve noted oft times before that a major formative influence during my early 20s was Arthur Frommer’s book, Europe on $25 A Day.
Edibles & Potables: All the food was Greek to me, if not to my travel guru
Earlier this year I fetched my 1985 edition of Frommer’s seminal guidebook, found the chapter on Nice, France and headed to the city (from the rarefied vantage point of Google Maps). For the next hour I patiently searched the addresses of restaurants and bars that Frommer recommended almost 40 years ago, looking at the street views to see if any had survived.
There were none I could find. Some floor plans remain purposed as eateries, though not the same ones. Some have been extensively remodeled. A couple of the buildings have been replaced by new construction.
We might surmise that more than a few upper tier restaurants remain, but these weren’t the subject of Frommer’s scrutiny in the first place. He based his selections according to value for budget-conscious travelers — and I’ll always be grateful I saw his book on the shelf at the library, because it changed my life.
My mapping exercise wasn’t sad, perhaps because I never made it to Nice in 1985 or ever since … until now. All those years and journeys, and only a brief dab of the French Riviera (Perpignan and points west, toward Spain, in 1998).
All I can do is shrug; we’re all different people, and Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast interested me more back then (and still does). However I’m sure it’s going to be a jolly good time in Nice. Yes, it is winter, although daytime temps will be in the high fifties, but more importantly it is Carnaval de Nice, and now the family budget will allow a culinary splurge or three.
The Must-Try Food in Nice, France: Cuisine Nissarde, at Chef Denise
WHAT IS CUISINE NISSARDE?
Although Nice belongs to the region Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, Nice gastronomy is unique. Cuisine Niçoise reflects Nice’s geographical location on the Mediterranean Sea, its strong historical ties to Italy, and the local ingredients of Provence. In 1998, in order to preserve the authentic Nice cuisine, the French designated the appellation “Cuisine Nissarde.”
Nissarde refers to the old time dialect of the region, which today very few people still speak. Nice restaurants earn the “Cuisine Nissarde” label by adhering to traditional Nissarde recipes and ingredients. One of the prerequisites for being awarded the label even requires the restaurants to provide customers with a warm welcome. And they do!
Coming right up: Socca, Pissaladière, Beignets and the namesake Salad Niçoise (among others). Lots of coffee; probably more wine than beer. The Mediterranean just two blocks away. Let’s get those batteries recharged, people.
Photo credit: Chef Denise web site.
